Retrofiting Scm record 220

Would like to add that I dont see too much use of tilting spindle axis anyway, maybe am wrong?
But have idea.. What if could just tilt it with one potentiometer to desired angle, in that case could still use it to drill holes at angle with drilling unit and cut board at angle.
Also could cut fully at edge of the table since my Y axis now has longer travel than width of the table.
Machine came with 3.2m x 1.55m travel but there was some distancer on Y that has limit travel to about 1.25m which is width of the table.
Now I took off that distancer and its free to go, just need to move that limit switch but it already have a place designed at 1.25m and other at 1.55m.
So think I will use both limits with a switch to chose between them so sometimes can have better travel.

The servo drive in the picture has analog inputs that are not used, the speed ref pins are used, so might be quadrature or up/down signals?
That would have to be confirmed, so a manual would help.
If all other drives are step/dir, that makes things a bit easier, but the X issue must be fixed in the drive or it might just be interference from dangling cables.
I do not know what uc300eth is, but if it is for use with mach3/4 i would really, really avoid using it, seen to many machines left crippled by such retrofits.
Get Mesa boards, namely 7i96S with 7i85 and add 7i84 as required for IO, they use a single network cable so you can mount those on the gantry or near the spindles, makes wiring much easier.
Fixing old controllers is ok if something small is gone, but anything bigger and it costs much more than retrofitting it.
Also, do not solder the battery to the controller board without a properly grounded soldering iron.

We have an older SCM Routomat machine with a NUM 1040 control we bought about 8yrs ago. It was brain dead when we bought it due to a dead battery. We were able to salvage a backup of the machine's parameters from the old HMI PC's harddrive to revive it. (After whacking it on a table a couple times to free up stuck platters.)

There isn't been a day since that I haven't wished we would not have been able to fix the old control, and that I would have converted it to Linuxcnc from the start.

Then again about 4 years ago we had some issues with the control, ended up having to send the control out to NUM for repair. My superiors at work decided that if it would cost less than $5000 we'd have it repaired, if more then we'd talk about letting me retrofit it. Wouldn't you know the bill came back at almost exactly $5000, and they decided to fix it. Ugh!

Tommylight,
www.controltech.com.tr/Documents/Others/...stro%20UG%20Iss4.pdf
Here is the manual.
You may be right about X axis, cables are still a mess since just wanted to fast check if axis work and didnt set machine in place properly.
Before buying, after looking a machine I have already read manuals and realize its must buy because was 90% sure 3axis will work with step/dir and price was less than if they sold only steel construction to junkyard for price of steel at that time. (I still dont get why they didnt do that)

UC300eth is bob from Uccnc, I went with it after reading they are very good, easy to setup and that Linux is much harder especially when things get complicated.
On the other hand Acorn was too expensive but probably best solution.

They told me only battery is an issue but still nobody else has buy it over long time, I would like to fix it and maybe sell it if its obsolete to work with anymore. Am sure someone will need it and as see are very expensive.
 

Todd Zuercher,

I read your comments, that was answer I was looking for and will not think about using it.
If you have some ideas of how to bring it to life I would appreciate it or if someone can fix it could pay for it, if can sell it in working condition for a 1000-2000€ would be very happy with it.

The best solution is always, always, LinuxCNC and Mesa.
I have retrofitted several fully working machines with LinuxCNC, including my personal Mazak.
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If only the battery is the issue, it is easy to check, power it on, enter the missing parameters and the machine should work until power off. Finding the parameters might not be easy, or you might have them already if you have the documentation. Or there might be no missing parameters at all...
If it is the BIOS battery that complains as soon as the PC starts, just press F1, it should continue and work, but if there are ISA slot cards in use on the PC that might also needs setting parameters in BIOS. The battery is usually CR2025, costs 1 Euro.
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You are near me, so when someone tells you it is the battery, most probably it is all gone to hell.
From experience, 1 in roughly 150 times it turns out to be what i was told.