Brother TC-225 / TC-229 adventure!

More
13 Mar 2017 17:04 #89531 by mblaszkiewicz
I did a TC-211 a while ago. I can't wait until you get to the tool changer. It's the one piece I haven't got nailed down yet. During you wiring or re wiring if you could kinda point out where the encoder and power leads end up in the back of the cabinets I would appreciate it. Thanks

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
13 Mar 2017 17:16 #89533 by ihavenofish
hi, the 229 and 225 are slightly different, but the 225 has a "reversable motor controller with brake" which is a glorified relay with resistors to allow the motor to stop quickly. track 5 on the encoder is the "deceleration" track, which you would monitor for a state change and then hit the brake. you only have about 1/4 turn (after the gearing) to stop before the carousel starts to move to the next tool. the relay itself, im not sure if its 110v or direct 24v control. it may be 110v, with a 24v relay on the relay board controlling the 110v (seems redundant, but theres a few things in the machines like that).

i have not touched that part yet, cause my tc225 works "as is" and im keeping it like that for a little while. my 229 im still trying to get the servos going, which lately ive had no time to work on the last week.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
13 Mar 2017 17:20 #89534 by mblaszkiewicz
I'm just looking for where the wires hook up in the back for now. I haven't been able to trace them. I basically have my machine in original conditioni just added new jumpers to the existing wiring to get it to work in g code.. where are you located btw. If in ct

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
13 Mar 2017 22:28 #89559 by ihavenofish
im in canada. i will upload a photo with an arrow pointing to the atc motor controller, though its hard to say if it will be identical to yours. actually, if you showed me a photo of your cabinet, i might be able to pick it out.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
23 Mar 2017 20:39 #90157 by ihavenofish
gettin a bath :P


its actually in pretty good condition under the caked on oil and grease and coolant.
Attachments:
The following user(s) said Thank You: arvidb

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
28 Mar 2017 19:46 #90455 by ihavenofish
moar clean!

so, question, how would one go cleaning the linear rails of tarnish and caked on gunk, without actually removing them? normally id just use a pedestal grinder with a non abrasive buffing type wheel, but clearly that cant work here. and im not sure theres even room to try and put a wheel on a drill and scrub them.

Attachments:

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
28 Mar 2017 20:12 #90459 by tommylight
Acetone based paint thinner.
Bumped in it by accident some days ago, it makes cleaning stuff a breeze. And it is not corosive to aluminium or metal. Spent 3 hours yesterday cleaning some heavily dried paint, usualy i would not even bother or just use the angle grinder and make a mess, but this changed everything. I was enjoying it as you can see the results after 3 to 4 rubs.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
28 Mar 2017 20:16 #90460 by ihavenofish
interesting. ive used simple green so far and its working great on the grease, but its not doing much of anything to the tarnish spots. also, not thrilled about putting it on precision surfaces, cause it can lead to rust if you dont remove all of it.

ill get a bottle of acetone and a few other solvents to see what works well. i was told wd40 removes it, but it seems to do nothing at all.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
28 Mar 2017 20:36 #90463 by tommylight
WD40 does a lot of things including cleaning, but not long term stains.
Do not use pure acetone, although i can not think of any side effects except it will remove the paint too, the one used as nail polish remover will do nothing as it is diluted to much.
In all these years i have tried and tested a lot of things for all sorts of purposes like the only thing that will actualy remove rust from metal parts without doing any damage is winegar, used in salads. It needs a good rinse afterwards or it will rust all over again while you are watching it and thinking: wow this is clean. :)
Most usual cleaning i also do with WD40 and it leaves a nice shiny finish.
I did not know about that type of paint thiner till lately, but it does a perfect job. There are several other types of paint thiners that will not do much and beware of the oil based ones as they are..... well oily.
I can tell what type it is by smel, and this one has a distinkt acetone and alchohol smel, being the 2 main ingredients, not a surprise.
Regards,
Tom

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
28 Mar 2017 21:48 #90466 by ihavenofish
hmm. well, ill try a few things, thanks.

the tarnish is mostly in the over travel area of the rails. theres 1-2" on each end that the blocks dont go on at all (bumper stop), and then another 10-25mm each end that is for safety. so, really, im just doing it to make things perfect and not because theres a functional issue.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Moderators: cncbasher
Time to create page: 0.915 seconds
Powered by Kunena Forum