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Help with "Step Timing Calculator"

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13 years 5 months ago #34982 by allenwg2005
Todd and Basher,

Thanks for your input so far, I have been marginally successful, so I'm coming back to you for more advice.

I have the Y axis working accurately, as well as X.
The settings supprised me in the end, low speeds, with high acceleration. (Note attached ini).
Z, (as Basher stated), is being difficult.
It's odd, depending on settings it either goes up just fine and down poorly or, up poorly and down fine.
I can't seem to fined a good medium.

I have posted my hal and ini to see if you folks can see something I'm missing.

Thanks

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13 years 5 months ago - 13 years 5 months ago #34987 by Todd Zuercher
When you were feeling out what numbers you were using for velocity and acceleration, what order did you do it in?

I would do it by first setting the acceleration quite low (10 or less), then find the highest velocity the joint will do reliably, then reduce by about 10%. Now that you have found a good velocity setting, then move up the accel setting in a similar fashion and then reduce by a safe amount like you did for the velocity.

Or if it is still avalible, you could try to dig arround in the harddrive of the old PC to try to find the configuration file from the old control software to get an idea of what they should possibly be. (I think its accel and velocities are in steps/sec.).

Our machines using simular drives and Resolutions of 1018.592 steps/inch for X&Y use MaxVelocity=6 and Acceleration=30 and the Z has resolution of 4000step/inch with V=2 A=30.
Last edit: 13 years 5 months ago by Todd Zuercher.

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13 years 5 months ago #34988 by Todd Zuercher
That also dose not mean that your machine might not have a mechanical problem causing to much resistance or binding. Miss aligned lead screws or nuts can bind a lot, and so can worn out zero-back-lash nuts and screws. An air cylinder counter-ballance can work wonders on a heavy vertical axis, especially when using lead screws.

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13 years 5 months ago #35044 by allenwg2005
I got to thinking about your point Todd, what if I have a physical or mechanical problem.
Looking at the Z axis earlier I noticed there was a rather large amount of grease around the screw and nut.
It was a difficult place to clean as compared to X & Y so I attributed it to that.
(Denial, not just a river in Egypt anymore).

I went ahead and pulled down the Z axis, I have not one but two problems with it!
First a lineal rail pillow block is toast and in need of replacement, not a problem and expected to some degree.
But second, the Precision Nut is in some way fouled, it turns with a great deal of resistance.
The screw looks to be in excellent condition, I'm guessing it's internal.

Can I rebuild one of these?
Or can I get someone on the West coast to rebuild it?
Or should I find a comfortable place to sit down and get a price on replacing it?

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13 years 5 months ago #35047 by Todd Zuercher
It all depends on what you have now, and what you want in the end, and if the manufacturer still exists and supplies parts for this machine.

What kind of a screw and nut do you have now? Is it an Acme screw? Is it an anti backlash nut?

A lot of lead screws with anti backlash nut systems are designed to be self lubricating and ran dry. Greasing or oiling these will usually ruin them. These types of nuts and screws when worn out will usually bind quite a bit. When this starts to happen many people who don't konw any better will put oil or grease on them and this just makes it worse.
You can try to dissasemble the screw and nut, clean it and inspect the threads in the nut for ware? If you think you might want to switch to a ball screw, nows the time to decide. How ever you need to remember that a ball screw will need something to support the axis when the motor is not powered, a brake, a counterballance or both.

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13 years 5 months ago #35057 by allenwg2005
Sorry I should have mentioned what I have here.

This is a Rockford R-45 Precision Ball & Screw assembly, it is a recirculating bearing style, and is fitted with a grease fitting from the factory. There seems to be just enough drag on it to keep it from travel when not under power.
Or someone set it up to be loaded as to not let it fall when not under power, no way to know.
The only thing that spokes me about is it is the “preloaded”, I'm not sure I can address that.
I called Rockford and they just want you to buy a new one. (Not cheap)!
I'm sure I can take it apart (I'm good at that), some direction on assembling it properly and where to find parts would be helpful. I wonder what parts could be in there??? (I know a way to find out).

If I can ever get this machine going and make some cash with it, I would like to increase the Z axis envelop as much as possible, so spending a lot of money on this axis would be money wasted.

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