Rods "Spaceship" Scratch built Plasma Cutter build

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25 May 2020 13:01 #168864 by tommylight

Now I think I need another Lam drive. I can't really leave a crappy $40 ebay drive in there for the Z axis beside them can I?

I have one such setup, for now, using a Leadshine 742 drive for Z ! :)
Well, having completely silent stepper motors is one of the benefits, not that it matters much while the plasma is on.
Just some heads up:
Current settings, if the motor can do 3A, set them at 2A or max 2.5 as they will overheat,
Common ground inputs can work with much shorter pulse time, 2000 is very reliable, while common + needs at least 3500,
If and when you want to use boost feature, you have to invert the boost pin, as default they will lower the current when boost is on,
-
At 55m/m i tested the machines i am building, the motors were spinning at over 3500RPM, at nearly 700RPM i was jumping on and off the gantry while "surfing the gantry" and they never lost position. For a stepper system that is damn near impossible, especially using Nema 23 short motors rated at 2.4A driven at 2A !
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25 May 2020 13:28 #168866 by rodw
Thanks Tommy. Ron also suggested to start low too.

What I recommend you test
The DS1076AS22 ( ac /dc driver capable) with high speed inputs)
This driver can operate on AC from 20 to 65VAC
Start testing the following setup first
You could be surprised with the amount of torque especially with ball screws..
Try the toroidal taro wired for 30VAC ( put windings in Parallel)
This would give you approx 50VDC internal inside the drive and set the current to the motor at about 4Amps or so
See what the torque is and how it handles the load ( you even have 2amps up your sleeve so you can increase the AMPS
a bit more if needed ..( always good to have some margin build in)

If the above is showing you are really not getting enough power/torque than wire the toroidal transformer for 60VAC
( windings in series at 60VAC and 5Amp (300Va)
Set the current in the DS1076A to 3 or 4 Amp start low and see the performance ...

The above procedure is what I recommend just to make sure all is kosher as they say

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28 May 2020 08:38 #169203 by rodw
So who thought it would be quiet with all this COVID stuff around was wrong! This week has been so hectic, I have not even had a chance to have a good look at these...


I've also got a couple of toroids ordered and another open frame Lam driver for the Z axis on the way.
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28 May 2020 09:17 #169207 by tommylight
Njam njam njam, tasty ! :)
Not sure if i mentioned this before, but the only real issue i have with Lam drives is the use of windows to program them, so i have to keep an old P2 laptop around just for them. Bummer ! :)

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28 May 2020 09:57 #169211 by rodw

Njam njam njam, tasty ! :)
Not sure if i mentioned this before, but the only real issue i have with Lam drives is the use of windows to program them, so i have to keep an old P2 laptop around just for them. Bummer ! :)


Please don't remind me of that!

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28 May 2020 12:56 #169226 by gerold
Hello Rodw,
Can I take the code from the post of January 5, 2017 #8279 to use for my 7i76e card? Can i use the Code for 2 Handweels?
Or is it possible to get her Hal, INI and Custom file by email?
my email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

Sorry, my English is not so good, but I hope you can understand what I mean.

Thanks
Gerold

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28 May 2020 13:12 #169228 by rodw

Hello Rodw,
Can I take the code from the post of January 5, 2017 #8279 to use for my 7i76e card? Can i use the Code for 2 Handweels?
Or is it possible to get her Hal, INI and Custom file by email?
my email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

Sorry, my English is not so good, but I hope you can understand what I mean.

Thanks
Gerold


Of course you can use my code. My config is not really a good one to work from as it is very complicated and uses things that noone else does. There is a basic hal example I did for the 7i76e that would be better but it needs the spindle updating to the new multi spindle. Its only one line that needs changing.
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29 May 2020 11:17 #169303 by rodw
Sorry still not ready to fit the LAms yet but I had some fun today. I used my new materials hook for the first time

I got it powder coated becasue I had a few parts that I know would be less than their minimum charge...




So its a pretty cool gadget for loading sheets onto your table if you are a one man band. Shown here loading 6mm steel. Maybe I should have made it out of heavier material but heck the brace between the hooks was just a rusty scrap laying around.

So with the sheet loaded, I turned $200 worth of steel into $2000 worth of parts.


I cut a handful of these and got them back from powdercoating on Wednesday and sold them all in three days at $30 a piece which is still 20% cheaper than a commercial part which does not look anywhere near as cool!

Man, I have to find more opportunities like this!

I just have to workout what to do with the offcuts from the centre. Maybe I can weld them up into an artistic sculpture so any suggestions are welcomed!
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29 May 2020 16:24 #169324 by denhen89
Hello Rod,
i hope you can help me out and also i hope that its not a problem to write it into your post, but if so then let me know and i will delete the post.

So, i got my 2 Pole 6 Position switch from aliexpress, same one as you have used (at least i think) which i want to use for the axis scale and mpg enable. (exactly what ou have done. Here the link to the switch: www.aliexpress.com/item/4000687267288.ht...3.0.0.30a65931P1Gvvg

I have 2 MPGs for my Lathe, but currently i am testing it only for one. So, i did exactly what you described on the 3. page of this thread.
I connected PIN 3, 4, 6 and 8 together (please take a look at the picture) and connected PIN 8 to +24V, so all have +24V.
The A and B pin to input 21 and 22 on my Mesa 7i76E.

I copy and paste you hal settings and just changed the or2.3 to 2.1 because i have currently only 2 or2`s (please take a look at the HAL files i added to the attachment).
The switch works, but only for the scale 0,1mm. I turned the switch completly to the left side, when i move it ones to the right side then i get the scale 0,1mm and the one MPG (X-axis) works, but not 0,01mm and also not 1,00mm.

I have opened Halmeter, choosed pin "mux4.0.out" which shows "0" when the switch is turned completly to the left side, when moved one click to the right it shows "0,1mm", then next clicks always "0".

I dont understand why, i really tried to find the problem. For example i choosed other pins instead e.g. pin 6 and 8, but what i ones got was that i got 2 times 0.1mm, so i seems like its some kind of .hal config problem.
I hope you can find some time to help me out with that. Let me know if you need more informations.

Thanks in advance!
Denis
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29 May 2020 19:42 #169343 by rodw
I did this a long time ago.
I think you need to start at the beginning. That is to work out how the switch works with a multimeter and continuity tester. The outputs are binary bits and in binary we count
00
01
10
11

There is no guarantee your switch is the same as mine
So sel1 and sel2 (input 21 and input 22) are the two columns above
The switch probably has another output which would be sel3 if used with a mux8 (the third bit )
So before you wire anything, you need to build a truth table like I show for every switch position.
Then you will know which inputs (switch positions) need power to create the bitmap on the output pins.

You would be much better off creating a seperate thread as more people will see it

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