2+2+3 More Plasma builds, double the joy ! 3X2M and 2.5X1.5M cnc plasma build.

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29 Sep 2021 23:14 #221860 by tommylight

that blue paint looks familiar i can't put my finger on it :)
 

I wonder who else has the same color machine on this forum... :)

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30 Sep 2021 07:45 - 30 Sep 2021 07:46 #221872 by Joco
Tommy - enjoy the farewell party.   Some closeups on the other gearing/betl setup will also give me some ideas to knock the edges off what I have been scribling up.  It all helps the thinking and learning and is much appreciated.

Cheers - J.
Last edit: 30 Sep 2021 07:46 by Joco.
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30 Sep 2021 19:49 #221909 by tommylight
As per request, here are the close ups of the reduction and the "invisible" reduction! :)
Most of the troubles with reductions are caused by the lack of that aluminium L profile, i have another 30CM of it left so i am saving as much as i can. Had found nearly 4 meters of it last year together with both of the profiles in pictures by accident and found out they were ordered by accident also, so i can not find it anymore, literally the guy had no idea he has that stuff in his shop till i sent him a picture of a small part that a friend of mine found in his yard, probably have to make an offer he cant refuse to push him to get me more! :)



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30 Sep 2021 20:36 #221912 by Joco
Awesome - that confirms some thinking and looks very similar to some of my hack up sketches. Is that 6mm or 10mm angle aluminium? I don't have any so had been planning to use the 6mm thick flat bar I have to weld up my own angle shapes. Buying is not very attractive as I don't need much and there are minmum lengths I would need to get. Heck if that is 10mm from flexibility point of view I would be better off get some 10mm or 12mm flat bar and either welding or bolting it into place. :-)
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30 Sep 2021 21:33 #221914 by tommylight
It is a 48X88X8mm L shaped alu, a bit of an overkill but i do like overkill.
I also use 50X10 flat alu bar for the idlers on the Y axis, and this i can order again from Austria through a company i worked for, roughly 16 Euro/M, so i am happy with it.
Since we are here, by some dumb luck i did find M3x20 hex head screws, M3 heat inserts, and some days ago also found some cr@ppy M3x24 and M3x18! :) Spent over 3 months hunting those, talking about wasting perfectly good time...

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30 Sep 2021 21:58 #221918 by Joco
Cool - great to know.  my 65x6mm bar on my way smaller machine should be plenty then.   Just as well I haven't packed away the TIG yet, looks like I'm going to be needing it again.

What you using the M3's for?  I'm mostly using, M4 (only for the linear rails), M5 and M6.

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30 Sep 2021 22:40 - 30 Sep 2021 22:41 #221921 by Joco
Question re gantry squaring.   I don’t recall seeing this procedure explained but if there is a link that would be great.   If not, interested in understanding the procedure and tools needed to correctly square the gantry to the Y axis of the machine.  This should help in initial setup of the gantry and in fine tuning the homing switch trigger points.  

thanks - James.  
Last edit: 30 Sep 2021 22:41 by Joco. Reason: Lack of preview function is driving way more after post edits. Grrrrr!

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30 Sep 2021 23:49 #221927 by tommylight
M3 are used in every 3D printer on the planet, while here are non existent.
6mm is more than enough for a reduction if the gantry does not weight in to much.
Squaring is easy since 2.8, no need to move switches or adjust screws or.... nothing really, all you need is a plate/plank/blanket/big piece of paper to mark the set points with a sharpie, at 0.0, 0.1000, 2000.1000, 2000.0, then measure diagonally between two of those points and other two of those points.
Be aware that when measuring if using a tape measure it is very important to have the tape always on the same side of the set points, messing that alone can skew about 1-2mm. Values above are example, use what your machine can handle. Also never edit both Y offset values in the .ini file at the same time.
Now, say the measured values came back 8mm longer on one side, that will roughly be 4mm out on one side so use that in the .ini for offset.
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01 Oct 2021 02:49 #221934 by Joco

M3 are used in every 3D printer on the planet, while here are non existent.

Ah 3D Printer - yup - gotcha.  Yeah, I have a Hypercube Evolution I need to finish at some point.

6mm is more than enough for a reduction if the gantry does not weight in to much.
Squaring is easy since 2.8, no need to move switches or adjust screws or.... nothing really

I presume there homing swicthes can't be too far out of a square position else things are going to go wrong.  So get them in place based on some ruler measurements ...

, all you need is a plate/plank/blanket/big piece of paper to mark the set points with a sharpie, at 0.0, 0.1000, 2000.1000, 2000.0, then measure diagonally between two of those points and other two of those points.
Be aware that when measuring if using a tape measure it is very important to have the tape always on the same side of the set points, messing that alone can skew about 1-2mm. Values above are example, use what your machine can handle. Also never edit both Y offset values in the .ini file at the same time.
Now, say the measured values came back 8mm longer on one side, that will roughly be 4mm out on one side so use that in the .ini for offset.

then fine tune the home Y offset from where the switch triggers to get the a gantry that generates a rectangle/square shape that has equal diagonals. So you know it is square on all sides.

You could use a set square at your X check points. Have the setsquare so it reaches down to the paper/board/etc from the gantry after moving the Y to an asked for position.

When I get to that stage I will try and do a video of the process.   Or write it all up with pics.  Of course, it would help if my sensors would actually leave China.

Cheers - J.
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01 Oct 2021 11:04 #221943 by snowgoer540

Squaring is easy since 2.8, no need to move switches or adjust screws or....


I'm not sure how changing the offsets in the .ini file to affect squaring, instead of adjusting the sensors never occurred to me.

Brilliant!
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